A Lisbon Monastery’s Best-Kept Secret: The Pastel de Nata

A secret recipe, a history as deliciously layered as its crust, and a legacy that’s travelled across oceans: this dessert deserves every bit of acclaim it gets. 

Meet the pastel de nata: encased in a pastry made of crisp, flaky paper-thin layers of golden dough is a smooth yellow custard with a top that is caramelised just enough to resist ever so slightly when you poke your fork in. Pastel means pastry in Portuguese while nata translates to cream; so the pastel de nata quite literally translates to “pastry of cream”. This small tartlet is one of Portugal’s most iconic desserts, with a ubiquitous influence on Goa.

Its origins date back over three centuries, to the Jerónimos Monastery in Belém, Lisbon. At the time, monasteries would use egg whites to starch clothes, resulting in lots and lots of leftover egg yolks….which were, in turn, put to good use in pastries and cakes. The monks at this monastery created a recipe for the pastel de nata, which, even today, remains a closely guarded secret. In 1820, Portugal underwent the Liberal Revolution, following which absolute monarchy was abolished and religious orders were dissolved. By 1834,  the Jerónimos Monastery had closed its doors. Its monks, who had been selling their pastéis de nata at a sugar refinery nearby, then sold their recipe to the refinery’s owners, who opened the now-legendary Fábrica de Pastéis de Belém in 1837. To this date, the same family still owns this establishment and continues to sell the famed pastel de nata, and its original recipe is kept contained in a secret room. 

Over time, the pastel de nata became a beloved staple across Portugal, enjoyed warm with a sprinkle of powdered sugar or cinnamon over cups of coffee. When the Portuguese expanded their colonial presence across the world, they carried their culinary traditions with them — and among these sweet exports was the humble custard tart. In Goa, the influence lingered long after Portuguese rule ended, inspiring local adaptations that reflect the region’s own ingredients and palate. Today, you’ll find Goan versions that nod to the pastel de nata: flaky, eggy, and caramelised. 

While numerous Goan cafés and bakeries offer pastéis de nata, I find myself returning again and again to Padaria Prazeres in Panjim. The unassuming café has perfected the art of the pastel, with multiple batches baking and selling out within a span of minutes. Savour it with a cup of coffee, pair it with their other melt-in-the-mouth baked goods, or get a few packed to take home for your folks; just make sure to get there before they sell out of pastéis. Located just a 3-minute walk from the Jerónimos Monastery, Fábrica de Pastéis de Belém is on my edible bucket list if I ever make it to Portugal. Until then, I plan to relish these dainty egg tarts each time I’m in Goa. 

Sources

Santa Nata

The Real Word